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The following is an overview of the key chronological milestones in the '''history of rock climbing''' including its origins in Europe, and a compilation of notable events in the worldwide development of the sport. The list covers the various sub-disciplines in [[rock climbing]], including [[traditional climbing]], [[sport climbing]], [[big wall climbing]], [[bouldering]], [[free solo]]ing, and [[deep-water soloing]]. It does not cover related but separate [[mountaineering]] disciplines that involve elements of [[ice climbing]], such as [[alpine climbing]] (although it does include big wall climbing in the Alps), or [[mixed climbing]]. Important events in the development of [[rock-climbing equipment]] are also chronicled.
The following is an overview of the key chronological milestones in the '''history of rock climbing''' including its origins in Europe, and a compilation of notable events in the worldwide development of the sport. The list covers the various sub-disciplines in [[rock climbing]], including [[traditional climbing]], [[sport climbing]], [[big wall climbing]], [[bouldering]], [[free solo]]ing, and [[deep-water soloing]]. It does not cover related but separate [[mountaineering]] disciplines that involve elements of [[ice climbing]], such as [[alpine climbing]] (although it does include big wall climbing in the Alps), or [[mixed climbing]]. Important events in the development of [[rock-climbing equipment]] are also chronicled.


The three core disciplines of rock climbing, single-pitch climbing, big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing, and bouldering, can trace their origins to the end of the 19th-century in Europe. Bouldering started in [[Fontainebleau rock climbing|Fontainebleau]], pioneered by [[Pierre Allain]], accelerated in the 1950s by [[John Gill (climber)|John Gill]], and again by [[Fred Nicole]] in the 2000s. Big wall climbing started in the [[Dolomites]] and was developed across the Alps by climbers such as [[Emilio Comici]], [[Riccardo Cassin]], and [[Walter Bonatti]], before arriving in [[Yosemite]] where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as [[Royal Robbins]]. Single-pitch climbing started simultaneously in Britain and Germany, but by the 1970s was being practiced throughout Europe and North America in particular, with many leaders including [[Ron Fawcett]] (Britain), [[Ron Kauk]] (USA), and [[Bernd Arnold]] (Germany).
The three core disciplines of rock climbing: single-pitch climbing, big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing, and bouldering, can all trace their origins to the end of the 19th-century in Europe. Bouldering started in [[Fontainebleau rock climbing|Fontainebleau]], and was advanced by [[Pierre Allain]] in the 1930s, [[John Gill (climber)|John Gill]] in the 1950s, and by [[Fred Nicole]] in the 2000s. Big wall climbing started in the [[Dolomites]], and was spread across the Alps by climbers such as [[Emilio Comici]], [[Riccardo Cassin]], and [[Walter Bonatti]], before arriving in [[Yosemite]] where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as [[Royal Robbins]]. Single-pitch climbing started simultaneously in Britain and Germany, and by the 1970s was happening throughout Europe and North America, with many leaders including [[Ron Fawcett]] (Britain), [[Ron Kauk]] (USA), and [[Bernd Arnold]] (Germany).


Single-pitch climbing only became largely free of [[aid climbing|artificial aid]] in the early 20th-century with the adoption of the "[[free climbing]]" ethos. [[Climbing protection]] was still needed and was inserted into the route while climbing; this became known as "traditional climbing". By the 1980s, leading French climbers like [[Patrick Edlinger]] wanted to climb rock faces in [[Buoux]] and [[Verdon Gorge|Verdon]] that had no cracks in which to insert traditional climbing protection. To overcome this, they pre-drilled [[Bolt (climbing)|protection bolts]] into routes as climbing protection (but not as an artificial aid); this became known as "sport climbing". It led to a dramatic increase in climbing standards, the development of [[Climbing competition|competition climbing]] (which was initially dominated by the French), and the arrival of the ''professional rock climber''. While bouldering was always free solo (i.e. no aid or protection), big wall climbing took even longer to move from aid climbing, as many walls in Yosemite and the Alps resisted attempts to free climb them for decades.
As a free solo exercise, devoid of any [[aid climbing|artificial aid]] or [[climbing protection]], the practice of bouldering has remained largely consistent since its origins. Single-pitch climbing became free of [[aid climbing|artificial aid]] in the early 20th-century with the adoption of "[[free climbing]]". Big wall climbing took longer to move from aid climbing as many walls attempts to free climb them for decades. Climbing protection was still needed for single-pitch and big-wall free climbing, which was inserted into the route while climbing; this became known as "traditional climbing". By the 1980s, leading French climbers like [[Patrick Edlinger]] wanted to climb rock faces in [[Buoux]] and [[Verdon Gorge|Verdon]] that had no cracks in which to insert traditional climbing protection. To overcome this, they pre-drilled [[Bolt (climbing)|bolts]] into routes as climbing protection (but not as an artificial aid); this became known as "sport climbing". It led to a dramatic increase in climbing standards, the development of [[Climbing competition|competition climbing]] (which was initially dominated by the French), and the arrival of the ''professional rock climber''.


By the end of the 20th-century, sport climbers realized that the hardest sport climbs were combinations of boulder moves, and that some of the best challenges lay in freeing extreme big wall routes; this led to increased cross-over amongst the three disciplines. Leading climbers like [[Jerry Moffatt]], [[Wolfgang Güllich]], [[Alexander Huber]], [[Chris Sharma]], [[Adam Ondra]], and [[Tommy Caldwell]] set records in more than one of these disciplines. In addition, Güllich and Huber made ever bolder single-pitch free solo climbs, while Sharma pushed standards in deep-water soloing, and [[Alex Honnold]]'s big wall free soloing was turned into the [[91st Academy Awards|Oscar-winning]] film, ''[[Free Solo]]''. In 2016 the [[International Olympic Committee]] announced that competition climbing would be a medal sport in the [[2020 Summer Olympics]].
By the end of the 20th-century, sport climbers realized that the hardest sport climbs were really combinations of boulder moves and that some of the best challenges lay in freeing extreme big wall routes; this led to increased cross-over amongst the three disciplines. Leading climbers like [[Jerry Moffatt]], [[Wolfgang Güllich]], [[Alexander Huber]], [[Chris Sharma]], [[Adam Ondra]], and [[Tommy Caldwell]] set records in more than one of these disciplines. In addition, Güllich and Huber made ever bolder single-pitch free solo climbs, while Sharma pushed standards in deep-water soloing, and [[Alex Honnold]]'s big wall free soloing was turned into the [[91st Academy Awards|Oscar-winning]] film, ''[[Free Solo]]''. In 2016 the [[International Olympic Committee]] announced that competition climbing would be a medal sport in the [[2020 Summer Olympics]].


Female rock climbing developed later in the 20th-century, but by the 1970s and 1980s, climbers such as [[Lynn Hill]] and [[Catherine Destivelle]] were quickly closing the gap to the standard of routes being climbed by the leading men. In 1993, Hill made the first free ascent of ''[[The Nose (El Capitan)|The Nose]]'' on [[El Capitan]], one of the most sought-after big wall climbing prizes that had resisted all prior attempts. By the 21st-century, [[Josune Bereziartu]], [[Angela Eiter]] and [[Ashima Shiraishi]], had closed the gap to the highest sport and boulder climbing grades achieved by men to just one/two notches, while [[Beth Rodden]] had completely closed the gap for traditional climbing grades.
Female rock climbing developed later in the 20th-century, but by the 1970s and 1980s, climbers such as [[Lynn Hill]] and [[Catherine Destivelle]] were quickly closing the gap to the standard of routes being climbed by the leading men. In 1993, Hill made the first free ascent of ''[[The Nose (El Capitan)|The Nose]]'' on [[El Capitan]], one of the most sought-after big wall climbing prizes that had resisted all prior attempts. By the 21st-century, [[Josune Bereziartu]], [[Angela Eiter]] and [[Ashima Shiraishi]], had closed the gap to the highest sport and boulder climbing grades achieved by men to just one/two notches, while [[Beth Rodden]] had completely closed the gap for traditional climbing grades.

Revision as of 20:34, 5 December 2022

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Napes Needle, on the Great Gable in the Lake District, England, was first climbed by W. P. Haskett Smith in June 1886; an act that is widely considered to be the start of the sport of rock climbing.[1]
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The following is an overview of the key chronological milestones in the history of rock climbing including its origins in Europe, and a compilation of notable events in the worldwide development of the sport. The list covers the various sub-disciplines in rock climbing, including traditional climbing, sport climbing, big wall climbing, bouldering, free soloing, and deep-water soloing. It does not cover related but separate mountaineering disciplines that involve elements of ice climbing, such as alpine climbing (although it does include big wall climbing in the Alps), or mixed climbing. Important events in the development of rock-climbing equipment are also chronicled.

The three core disciplines of rock climbing: single-pitch climbing, big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing, and bouldering, can all trace their origins to the end of the 19th-century in Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, John Gill in the 1950s, and by Fred Nicole in the 2000s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps by climbers such as Emilio Comici, Riccardo Cassin, and Walter Bonatti, before arriving in Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started simultaneously in Britain and Germany, and by the 1970s was happening throughout Europe and North America, with many leaders including Ron Fawcett (Britain), Ron Kauk (USA), and Bernd Arnold (Germany).

As a free solo exercise, devoid of any artificial aid or climbing protection, the practice of bouldering has remained largely consistent since its origins. Single-pitch climbing became free of artificial aid in the early 20th-century with the adoption of "free climbing". Big wall climbing took longer to move from aid climbing as many walls attempts to free climb them for decades. Climbing protection was still needed for single-pitch and big-wall free climbing, which was inserted into the route while climbing; this became known as "traditional climbing". By the 1980s, leading French climbers like Patrick Edlinger wanted to climb rock faces in Buoux and Verdon that had no cracks in which to insert traditional climbing protection. To overcome this, they pre-drilled bolts into routes as climbing protection (but not as an artificial aid); this became known as "sport climbing". It led to a dramatic increase in climbing standards, the development of competition climbing (which was initially dominated by the French), and the arrival of the professional rock climber.

By the end of the 20th-century, sport climbers realized that the hardest sport climbs were really combinations of boulder moves and that some of the best challenges lay in freeing extreme big wall routes; this led to increased cross-over amongst the three disciplines. Leading climbers like Jerry Moffatt, Wolfgang Güllich, Alexander Huber, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Tommy Caldwell set records in more than one of these disciplines. In addition, Güllich and Huber made ever bolder single-pitch free solo climbs, while Sharma pushed standards in deep-water soloing, and Alex Honnold's big wall free soloing was turned into the Oscar-winning film, Free Solo. In 2016 the International Olympic Committee announced that competition climbing would be a medal sport in the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Female rock climbing developed later in the 20th-century, but by the 1970s and 1980s, climbers such as Lynn Hill and Catherine Destivelle were quickly closing the gap to the standard of routes being climbed by the leading men. In 1993, Hill made the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, one of the most sought-after big wall climbing prizes that had resisted all prior attempts. By the 21st-century, Josune Bereziartu, Angela Eiter and Ashima Shiraishi, had closed the gap to the highest sport and boulder climbing grades achieved by men to just one/two notches, while Beth Rodden had completely closed the gap for traditional climbing grades.

Origins

There are many early documented examples of people "rock climbing" to achieve various objectives. For example, the Le Quart Livre records that in 1492, ordered by his king, Antoine de Ville used castle siege tactics to ascend Mont Aiguille, a 300-meter rock tower, near Grenoble, France.[1][2] In another example from 1695, Martin Martin described the traditional practice of fowling by climbing with the use of ropes in the Hebrides of Scotland, especially on St Kilda.[3]

The first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786, is considered the start of mountaineering's "modern era"; however it would take another century until the fixed anchors of rock climbing appear, including pitons, bolts, and rappel slings.[4] By the early 19th-century, "alpine rock climbing" was developing as a pastime, and using the tools of the alpine shepherd guides (many who would become mountain guides), the alpenstock and woodcutter's axe (which would be combined as the ice axe).[2]

Although the action of rock climbing had become a component of 19th-century victorian era Alpine mountaineering,[1] a sport of rock climbing (i.e. climbing short rock routes as a recreational activity without any summit objective), originated in the last quarter of the 19th-century, and in four European locations:[1][5] the Saxon Switzerland climbing region in Germany,[6] the Lake District and Peak District in England,[7][8] the Dolomites in Italy,[9] and in the forest of Fontainebleau in France.[1]

  • The solo first ascent of Napes Needle in the Lake District, England, by Walter Parry Haskett Smith in June 1886 is widely considered to be the start of the sport of rock climbing.[1] After the ascent, rock climbing attracted participation in Britain. By 1897, O. G. Jones had climbed Kern Knotts Crack at grade VS. By the end of the Victorian era, as many as 60 enthusiasts at a time would gather at the Wastwater Hotel in the Lake District during vacation periods.[1][10]
  • Inspired by late 19th-century pioneers such as Oskar Schuster [de] on Falkenstein, by 1903 there were 500 climbers in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, including the well-known team of Rudolf Fehrmann and American Oliver Perry-Smith; their 1906 ascent of Teufelsturm at grade VIIb, set new standards of difficulty. By the 1930s, there were 200 climbing clubs in the area.[1][6]
  • The 1887 solo first ascent of the Vajolet Towers by the 17-year-old Munich high school student Georg Winkler, encouraged the acceptance and development of the sport in the Dolomites, and in particular opened up the era of big wall climbing on the huge rock faces of the Dolomites, which spread over the wider Alps including the important centre of Chamonix in France.[1][9]
  • By 1897, members of the French Club alpin français began to gather amongst the boulders of Fontainebleau to practice their rock climbing skills that they would use in the Alpine season; the boulders were shorter than the large walls being attempted in the Lake District, Saxon Switzerland or the Dolomites, but this lead to the development of more advanced bouldering skills.[1][5]

19th century

Falkenstein, in Saxon Switzerland where routes above grade 6a (5.10a) were first climbed.[11]
Vajolet Towers, Dolomites; Torre Winkler, named after Georg Winkler, is the largest tower (centre); and was the start of early big wall climbing[1]

1900s

1910s

1920s

1930s

In the 1930s, Emilio Comici (left) and Riccardo Cassin (right, once taught by Comici) pioneered big wall climbing tools and techniques, and set new "hardest-ever" routes in the Alps.

1940s

1950s

In the 1950s, "Father of Bouldering" John Gill, pioneered modern bouldering and set several new "hardest-ever" grades.[26]
Walter Bonatti's iconic ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru cemented his status as one of the greatest big wall climbers in history.

1960s

Royal Robbins led Yosemite's big wall "Golden Age" from the late 1950s to the early 1970s, minimizing use of aid, unlike his rival Warren Harding.[31]

1970s

1980s

Wolfgang Güllich became the world's strongest sport climber by the mid-1980s, and would set more new "hardest-ever" sport climbing routes than any other climber in history; and completely revolutionize climbing training techniques.

1990s

Alexander Huber and Lynn Hill were two of the most dominant male and female rock climbers of the 1990s, setting new "hardest-ever" records in both sport climbing and big wall climbing.

2000s

Chris Sharma and Josune Bereziartu were two of the most dominant male and female rock climbers of the 2000s, each breaking new "hardest-ever" grades on multiple occasions

2010s

In the 2010s, Adam Ondra took on the mantle of "world's strongest climber" from Chris Sharma, with Angela Eiter the strongest female climber.
Alex Honnold (left) and Tommy Caldwell (right) made two of the most iconic climbs in history at Yosemite, both of which became Netflix films

2020s

See also

Notes

  1. ^ The two principal uses of pitons on an ascent are as protective safeguards (not used for actual hand or footholds - climbers refrained from putting weight on them except in the event of a fall) and as direct aid (used to physically assist in ascending a steep or overhanging slope rather than merely as protection). Climbers like Paul Preuss and Geoffrey Winthrop Young argued strongly against direct aid, but others of that era, including Hans Dülfer and Tita Piaz, advocated using such devices as artificial aids in order to climb otherwise unscalable walls. After World War I most European climbers chose to employ artificial aid when necessary. However, from the beginning days of rock climbing as a sport, through the 1940s, another form of artificial assistance was at times employed by teams of two or more climbers: the shoulder stand. From our current perspective, it seems odd that many of those climbers who strenuously objected to hanging on a piton found the shoulder stand to be quite acceptable. Occasionally, historical climbing photos, (e.g., [1]) illustrate this strategy, which arose from the perception that ascending a route was a team effort, with two climbers constituting one natural climbing unit. Something to keep in mind when reading of very early climbs in the 5.8 to 5.10 range.

References

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q Zhu, Beifeng; Chen, Ruizhi; Li, Yuan (9 August 2021). "The Origin and Early Evolution of Rock Climbing". Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research. 571. Atlantis Press: 662–667. doi:10.2991/assehr.k.210806.124.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n Middendorf, John (1999). "The Mechanical Advantage". Ascent. Retrieved 19 March 2013.
  3. ^ Martin, Martin (1703) "A Voyage to St. Kilda" in A Description of The Western Islands of Scotland Archived 2007-03-13 at the Wayback Machine. Retrieved 3 March 2007.
  4. ^ Edwards, Phil (2015-08-08). "Mont Blanc's first ascent, and the crazed crystal hunter who made it". Vox. Retrieved 2022-01-18.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  5. ^ a b c d e f g h Wilkinson, Freddie (14 March 2019). "Rock climbing: from ancient practice to Olympic sport". National Geographic. Retrieved 26 November 2022.
  6. ^ a b Goldammer, Albert & Wächtler, Martin (1936). "Bergsteigen in Sachsen", Dresden
  7. ^ Jones, Owen Glynne (1900). Rock Climbing in the English Lake District, G. P. Abraham & Sons, Keswick
  8. ^ Craddock, J. P. (2009-09-07). Jim Puttrell: Pioneer Climber and Cave Explorer (First ed.). Matador. ISBN 9781848761803.
  9. ^ a b Bergakrobaten: Die Dolomiten und die Erfindung des Kletterns, Città di Bolzano, Bolzano 2006
  10. ^ Hankinson, Alan (1972). The First Tigers, J. M. Dent & Sons, London
  11. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj ak al am an ao ap aq ar as at au av aw ax ay az ba bb bc bd be bf bg bh bi bj bk bl bm bn bo bp bq Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The Evolution of Free Climbing". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 4 January 2020.
  12. ^ a b Die Besteigung der Berge - Die Dolomitgipfel werden erobert (German: The ascent of the mountains - the dolomite peaks are conquered)
  13. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q Editorial (1 June 2016). "The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History". Outside. Retrieved 4 December 2022.
  14. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o Ament, Pat (2002). A History of Free Climbing in America. Berkeley CA: Wilderness Press. pp. 343–352. ISBN 0-89997-320-5.
  15. ^ a b c Climbing in North America, by Chris Jones
  16. ^ Muir, John (1912). "The Yosemite".
  17. ^ The Guga Hunters, Donald S. Murray
  18. ^ The First Great climb, BBC News
  19. ^ Climbing the mountains - The dolomite peaks are conquered (German)
  20. ^ a b Eckenstein, Oscar (1896). The Karakorams and Kashmir. London: T. Fisher Unwin. pp. 1–253. ISBN 978-1-110-86203-0.
  21. ^ National Park Service. "Devils Tower Study".
  22. ^ Bernard, Antonio. "Precursors of the VI Degree in the Catinaccio Group". Gognablog.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  23. ^ Horst Höfler "Dream Teams – Die erfolgreichsten Seilschaften des Alpinismus." (2008) pp 25.
  24. ^ Craggs, Chris (2009). "Western Grit", Rockfax, Sheffield
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  26. ^ Clarke, Owen (3 March 2022). "John Gill, Father of Bouldering". Climbing. Retrieved 4 December 2022.
  27. ^ "logbook/crags/curbaredge".
  28. ^ Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 6th Edition, The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington, ISBN 0-89886-427-5. P. 550.
  29. ^ a b Meyers, George (1987). Yosemite Climbs. Denver CO: Chockstone Press. pp. History Section.
  30. ^ "summits/schwager". Teufelsturm.com.
  31. ^ Van Leuven, Chris (21 March 2017). "Royal Robbins: The Kingpin of Yosemite's Golden Age". Climbing. Retrieved 4 December 2022.
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  33. ^ Gill, John. "Tit for Tat". Alpinist (15).
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  40. ^ Stefanello, Vinicio (7 November 2010). "The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2 January 2022.
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