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[[Category:Milchig restaurants|Milchig restaurants]]
[[Category:Milchig restaurants| ]]
[[Category:Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine]]
[[Category:Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine]]
[[Category:Jewish American cuisine]]
[[Category:Jewish American cuisine]]

Revision as of 15:56, 9 September 2024

B&H
about 1928, sign for Ratner's in background, Lower East Side

A Jewish dairy restaurant, dairy lunchroom or dairy deli (milkhik or milchig restaurant) is a type of vegetarian kosher restaurant, luncheonette or eat-in diner in Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine, particularly American Jewish cuisine and the cuisine of New York City.

Overview

Due to the strict rules for separating milk and meat in Jewish law, dairy restaurants evolved as an alternative to Jewish delicatessens which specialized in meat (fleischig).[1] Descended from the milchhallen or "milk pavilions" of Europe, they began appearing in the Jewish immigrant community of the Lower East Side in the late 19th and early 20th century, where there were at one time hundreds of dairy restaurants.[2][3][4] They were also found in Chicago and Toronto.[5][6]

Dairy restaurant menus include items such as potato latkes, gefilte fish, matzo brei, vegetarian (milkhiker) borscht, kugel, protose (a synthetic vegetable meat substitute), pierogies, milk toast, poppy cakes, buttermilk, cheese blintzes and kreplach, as well as American dishes such as scrambled eggs or tuna salad.[7][8][9][10][11][excessive citations] Notable examples frequented by Jewish immigrants and American Jews include B&H Dairy and Ratner's.[12][13][14][15][16][excessive citations] Leon Trotsky was said to be particularly fond of a restaurant called Triangle Dairy in the Bronx, but refused to tip, leading to verbal abuse, intentionally poor service, and an incident that caused him to be burned by hot soup.[17] A restaurant known as Steinberg's on the Upper West Side was beloved by writers and theater people and a refuge for Zero Mostel when he was blacklisted.[18] Isaac Bashevis Singer was said to favor the Famous Dairy Restaurant on West 72nd St. [19][20]

References

  1. ^ Kraemer, David C. (2020-07-24). Jewish Eating and Identity Through the Ages. Routledge. ISBN 978-1-000-15938-7.
  2. ^ Katchor, Ben (2020-03-10). "How Dairy Lunchrooms Became Alternatives to the NYC Saloon 'Free Lunch.'". Literary Hub. Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  3. ^ Elinsky, Kate (2020-06-30). "The Milchik Way". Jewish Review of Books. Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  4. ^ "Add this to your quarantine reading list: 500 pages on Jewish dairy restaurants and the 'milkhideke' personality". The Forward. 2020-05-27. Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  5. ^ Haddix, Carol; Kraig, Bruce; Sen, Colleen Taylor (2017-08-16). The Chicago Food Encyclopedia. University of Illinois Press. ISBN 978-0-252-09977-9.
  6. ^ Rosen, Amy (2019-09-03). Kosher Style: Over 100 Jewish Recipes for the Modern Cook: A Cookbook. Appetite by Random House. ISBN 978-0-525-60990-2.
  7. ^ Marks, Gil (2010-11-17). Encyclopedia of Jewish Food. HMH. ISBN 978-0-544-18631-6.
  8. ^ Hersh, June (2023). Iconic New York Jewish Food: A History and Guide with Recipes. Arcadia Publishing. ISBN 978-1-4671-5260-0.
  9. ^ Katchor, Ben (2020-03-10). The Dairy Restaurant. Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. ISBN 978-0-8052-4219-5.
  10. ^ Garner, Dwight (2020-03-16). "An Illustrated Love Song to Jewish Restaurants of Old". The New York Times. Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  11. ^ Moskin, Julia (2020-04-06). "A Rich (Very Rich) History of the Jewish Dairy Restaurant". The New York Times. Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  12. ^ Rosenberg, David (2009). "HISTORICAL NOTE: Holocaust Behind the Counter: L&G Luncheonette and the Origins of the East Village Poetry Scene". Chicago Review. 54 (3): 176–181. ISSN 0009-3696. JSTOR 25742523.
  13. ^ Smith, Gary Scott (2020-12-07). American Religious History: Belief and Society through Time [3 volumes]. Bloomsbury Publishing USA. ISBN 978-1-4408-6161-1.
  14. ^ Halper, Emanuel B. (2001). Shopping Center and Store Leases. Law Journal Press. ISBN 978-1-58852-003-6.
  15. ^ Stein, Lori; Isaacs, Ronald H. (2023-06-14). Let's Eat: Jewish Food and Faith. Rowman & Littlefield. ISBN 978-1-4422-7104-3.
  16. ^ Sherman, Susan (2014-09-01). Nirvana on Ninth Street. Wings Press. ISBN 978-1-60940-408-6.
  17. ^ Giffin, Frederick C. (1968). "Leon Trotsky in New York City". New York History. 49 (4): 391–403. ISSN 0146-437X. JSTOR 23162567.
  18. ^ "» Mid-Century Style, Black-List & Dairy Restaurants". www.landmarkwest.org. Retrieved 2024-09-08.
  19. ^ Berger, Joseph (1991-07-26). "I.B. Singer's New York: Fading, Yes, but Still Here". The New York Times.
  20. ^ Sider, West (2017-11-09). "Throwback Thursday: Famous Dairy Restaurant". West Side Rag. Retrieved 2024-09-08.
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