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History of rock climbing

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The following is an overview of the key chronological milestones in the history of rock climbing including its origins in Europe, and a compilation of notable events in the worldwide development of the sport. The list covers the various sub-disciplines in rock climbing, including traditional climbing, sport climbing, big wall climbing, bouldering, free soloing, and deep-water soloing. It does not cover related but separate mountaineering disciplines that involve elements of ice climbing, such as alpine climbing (although it does include big wall climbing in the Alps), or mixed climbing. Important events in the development of rock-climbing equipment are also chronicled.

The three main disciplines of rock climbing, single-pitch climbing, big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing, and bouldering, can all trace their origins to the end of the 19th-century. Bouldering has always been carried out in a free solo fashion (i.e no artificial aid or climbing protection), whereas single-pitch climbing only became largely free of artificial aid in the early 20th-century, with the adoption of the "free climbing" ethos. Climbing protection would still be used (but not for aid), and placed while on the route by the climber, which became known as "traditional climbing". By the 1980s, single-pitch climbers wanted to explore blank rock faces that had no cracks or other features in which to insert traditional climbing protection. To overcome this, single-pitch climbers, first in Europe, but later in the US, began to drill protection bolts into climbs, which could then be used for climbing protection (but not as an artificial aid); this became known as "sport climbing", and led to both a dramatic increase in climbing standards and grades and the arrival of the professional rock climber. Meanwhile, big wall climbing took longer to fully separate itself from aid climbing, and many walls in Yosemite and the Alps resisted attempts to free climb them for decades.

As standards in sport climbing rose, it became apparent that the hardest sport climbs were combinations of bouldering moves, and that some of the most interesting challenges for sport climbers lay in freeing harder big wall climbs; all of which led to increased cross-over amongst the three disciplines. Leading climbers like Wolfgang Güllich, Alexander Huber, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Tommy Caldwell have set records in several rock climbing disciplines. Sport climbers also developed free soloing with Güllich and Huber making bold free solos, while Sharma pushed standards and awareness of deep-water soloing; however, the most dramatic development was the big wall free soloing of Alex Honnold, which was captured in the Oscar-winning film, Free Solo.

Female rock climbing developed later in the 20th-century, but by the 1970s and 1980s, climbers such as Lynn Hill and Catherine Destivelle were quickly closing the gap to the standard of routes being climbed by the leading men. In 1993, Hill made the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, one of the most sought-after big wall climbing prizes that had resisted all prior attempts. By the 21st-century, Josune Bereziartu and Angela Eiter, had closed the gap to the highest sport climbing grades climbed by men to just one/two notches, while Beth Rodden had completely closed the gap for traditional climbing grades.

Origins

There are many early documented examples of people "rock climbing" to achieve various objectives. For example, the Le Quart Livre records that in 1492, ordered by his king, Antoine de Ville used castle siege tactics to ascend Mont Aiguille, a 300-meter rock tower, near Grenoble, France.[1][2] In another example from 1695, Martin Martin described the traditional practice of fowling by climbing with the use of ropes in the Hebrides of Scotland, especially on St Kilda.[3]

The first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786, is considered the start of mountaineering's "modern era"; however it would take another century until the fixed anchors of rock climbing appear, including pitons, bolts, and rappel slings.[4] By the early 19th-century, "alpine rock climbing" was developing as a pastime, and using the tools of the alpine shepherd guides (many who would become mountain guides), the alpenstock and woodcutter's axe (which would be combined as the ice axe).[2]

Although the action of rock climbing had become a component of 19th-century victorian era Alpine mountaineering,[1] a sport of rock climbing (i.e. climbing short rock routes as a recreational activity without any summit objective), originated in the last quarter of the 19th-century, and in four European locations:[1][5] the Saxon Switzerland climbing region in Germany,[6] the Lake District and Peak District in England,[7][8] the Dolomites in Italy,[9] and in the forest of Fontainebleau in France.[1]

  • The solo first ascent of Napes Needle in the Lake District, England, by Walter Parry Haskett Smith in June 1886 is widely considered to be the start of the sport of rock climbing.[1] After the ascent, rock climbing attracted participation in Britain. By 1897, O. G. Jones had climbed Kern Knotts Crack at grade VS. By the end of the Victorian era, as many as 60 enthusiasts at a time would gather at the Wastwater Hotel in the Lake District during vacation periods.[1][10]
  • Inspired by late 19th-century pioneers such as Oskar Schuster [de] on Falkenstein, by 1903 there were 500 climbers in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, including the well-known team of Rudolf Fehrmann and American Oliver Perry-Smith; their 1906 ascent of Teufelsturm at grade VIIb, set new standards of difficulty. By the 1930s, there were 200 climbing clubs in the area.[1][6]
  • The 1887 solo first ascent of the Vajolet Towers by the 17-year-old Munich high school student Georg Winkler, encouraged the acceptance and development of the sport in the Dolomites, and in particular opened up the era of big wall climbing on the huge rock faces of the Dolomites, which spread over the wider Alps including the important centre of Chamonix in France.[1][9]
  • By 1897, members of the French Club alpin français began to gather amongst the boulders of Fontainebleau to practice their rock climbing skills that they would use in the Alpine season; the boulders were shorter than the large walls being attempted in the Lake District, Saxon Switzerland or the Dolomites, but this lead to the development of more advanced bouldering skills.[1][5]

19th century

Falkenstein, in Saxon Switzerland where routes above grade 6a (5.10a) were first climbed.[11]
Vajolet Towers, Dolomites; Torre Winkler, named after Georg Winkler, is the largest tower (centre); and was the start of early big wall climbing[1]

1900s

1910s

1920s

1930s

In the 1930s, Emilio Comici (left) and Riccardo Cassin (right, once taught by Comici) pioneered big wall climbing tools and techniques, and set new "hardest-ever" routes in the Alps.

1940s

1950s

In the 1950s, "Father of Bouldering" John Gill, pioneered modern bouldering and set several new "hardest-ever" grades.[26]
Walter Bonatti's iconic ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru cemented his status as one of the greatest big wall climbers in history.

1960s

Royal Robbins led Yosemite's big wall "Golden Age" from the late 1950s to the early 1970s, minimizing use of aid, unlike his rival Warren Harding.[31]

1970s

1980s

Wolfgang Güllich became the world's strongest sport climber by the mid-1980s, and would set more new "hardest-ever" sport climbing routes than any other climber in history; and completely revolutionize climbing training techniques.

1990s

Alexander Huber and Lynn Hill were two of the most dominant male and female rock climbers of the 1990s, setting new "hardest-ever" records in both sport climbing and big wall climbing.

2000s

Chris Sharma and Josune Bereziartu were two of the most dominant male and female rock climbers of the 2000s, each breaking new "hardest-ever" grades on multiple occasions

2010s

In the 2010s, Adam Ondra took on the mantle of "world's strongest climber" from Chris Sharma, with Angela Eiter the strongest female climber.
Alex Honnold (left) and Tommy Caldwell (right) made two of the most iconic climbs in history at Yosemite, both of which became Netflix films

2020s

See also

Notes

  1. ^ The two principal uses of pitons on an ascent are as protective safeguards (not used for actual hand or footholds - climbers refrained from putting weight on them except in the event of a fall) and as direct aid (used to physically assist in ascending a steep or overhanging slope rather than merely as protection). Climbers like Paul Preuss and Geoffrey Winthrop Young argued strongly against direct aid, but others of that era, including Hans Dülfer and Tita Piaz, advocated using such devices as artificial aids in order to climb otherwise unscalable walls. After World War I most European climbers chose to employ artificial aid when necessary. However, from the beginning days of rock climbing as a sport, through the 1940s, another form of artificial assistance was at times employed by teams of two or more climbers: the shoulder stand. From our current perspective, it seems odd that many of those climbers who strenuously objected to hanging on a piton found the shoulder stand to be quite acceptable. Occasionally, historical climbing photos, (e.g., [1]) illustrate this strategy, which arose from the perception that ascending a route was a team effort, with two climbers constituting one natural climbing unit. Something to keep in mind when reading of very early climbs in the 5.8 to 5.10 range.

References

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