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Alanya is a seaside resort and district of Antalya Province in the Mediterranean region of Turkey, 120 km (74.6 miles) from the city of Antalya. The municipal district, which includes the city center, has close to 400,000 inhabitants.

Because of its natural strategic position on a small peninsula into the Mediterranean Sea below the Taurus Mountains, Alanya has been a local stronghold for many Mediterranean based empires, including the Seleucid, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires. Alanya's greatest political importance came in the Middle Ages with the Seljuk Sultanate of Rûm under the rule of Alaeddin Kayqubad I, from whom the city derives its name. His building campaign resulted in many of the city's landmarks, such as the Kızıl Kule (Red Tower), Tersane (arsenal), and citadel.

The relatively moderate Mediterranean climate and historic heritage makes Alanya a popular destination for holidaymakers, responsible for 9% of all tourism in Turkey. Tourism has risen since 1958 to become the dominant industry in the city, resulting in a corresponding increase in city population.

Names

The city has changed hands many times over the centuries, and its name has reflected this. Alanya was first known in Latin as Coracesium or in Greek as Korakesion from the Luwian Korakassa meaning "point/protruding city." Under the Byzantine Empire it become known as Kalonoros, or "beautiful mountain." The Seljuks renamed the city Alaiye (علاعية), a derivative of the name of the Sultan Alaeddin Kayqubad. In the 13th and 14th centuries, Italian traders called the city Candelore or Cardelloro.[1] In his 1935 visit, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk finalized the name in the new alphabet as Alanya, changing the 'i' and 'e' in Alaiye, reportedly because of a misspelled telegram two years prior.[2]

History

Piri Reis map of Alanya from 1525

Though first fortified in the Hellenistic period following the area's conquest by Alexander the Great, the castle rock was likely inhabited long before that under the Hittites and the Persian Empire.[3] Finds in the nearby Kadrini cave indicate occupation during the Paleolithic era as far back as 20,000 BC.[4] Left to Ptolemy I Soter after 323 BC, his dynasty maintained loose control over the mainly Isaurian population, and the area became a popular spot for Mediterranean pirates who were at times loyal to Diodotus Tryphon of the Seleucid kingdom.[5] This period ended after the city's incorporation into the Pamphylia province of the Roman Republic by Pompey in 67 BC, with the Battle of Korakesion fought in the city's harbor.[6] After the Empire's collapse and split, the city remained under Byzantine influence, becoming a suffragan of Side, in the metropolis of Pamphylia Prima. Islam arrived in the 7th century, and 681 marked the end of a bishopric in Alanya.[7] The area fell from Byzantine control after the Battle of Manzikert in 1071 to tribes of Seljuk Turks, only to be returned in 1120 by John II Komnenos.[8]

Following the Fourth Crusade, the Christian Armenian Kingdom of Cilicia periodically held the port, and it was from an Armenian, Kir Fard, that Muslims took lasting control in 1221 when the Anatolian Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Kayqubad exchanged governance of the city of Akşehir for it.[9] Seljuk rule saw the golden age of the city, and it can be considered the winter capital of their empire.[10] Building projects, including the twin citadel, city walls, arsenal, and Red Tower made it an important seaport for western Mediterranean trade, particularly with Ayyubid Egypt and the Italian city-states.[11] Kayqubad also constructed numerous gardens and pavilions outside the walls, and many of his works can still be found in the city. These were likely financed by his own treasury and by the local emirs', and constructed by the contractor Abu 'Ali al-Kattani al-Halabi.[3]

Byzantine era church built inside Alanya Castle

At the Battle of Köse Dağ in 1242, the Mongol hordes broke the Seljuk hegemony in Anatolia, and Sultan Gıyaseddin Keyhüsrev II died in the city in 1246. Alanya was then subject to a series of invasions from Anatolian Turkish Beyliks. In 1293, the Karamanoğlu dynasty took control after Mecdüddin Mahmud conquered the city, but their rule was intermittent.[12] Lusignans from the Cyprus briefly overturned the then ruling Hamidoğlu Beylik in 1371.[13] The city was sold by the Karamanoğlu in 1427 to the Mamluks of Egypt for a period before the general Gedik Ahmed Pasha in 1471 incorporated it into the growing Ottoman Empire. Their rule was extended in 1477 when they brought the main shipping trade, then mostly done by Venetians, under the government monopoly.[11] On September 6, 1608, the city rebuffed an attack by the Order of Saint Stephen from the Republic of Venice.[1]

In 1571 the city was designated part of the province of Cyprus, then later under Konya, and in 1868 under Antalya, as it is today. After World War I, Alanya was partitioned in the Agreement of St.-Jean-de-Maurienne to Italy, if only nominally.[14] Like most in this region, the city suffered heavily following the war and the population exchanges that heralded the Turkish Republic, when many of the city's Christians resettled in Nea Ionia, outside Athens. The Ottoman census of 1893 had put the number of Greeks in the city at 964 out of a total population of 37,914.[15]

Tourism in the region started among Turks who came to Alanya in the 1960s for the alleged healing properties of Damlataş cave, and later the access provided by Antalya Airport allowed the town to grow into an international resort. Strong population growth through the 1990s was a result of immigration to the city, and has driven a rapid modernization of the infrastructure.[16]

Geography

Tip of Alanya Peninsula

Located on the Gulf of Antalya on the Anatolian coastal plain of Pamphylia, the town is between the Taurus Mountains to the north and the Mediterranean Sea, and is part of the Turkish riviera, occupying roughly 43.5 miles (70 km) of coastline.[17] The Pamphylia plain between the sea and the mountains is an isolated example of Eastern Mediterranean conifer-sclerophyllous-broadleaf forests.[18] The town is divided by a rocky peninsula which is perhaps the most distinctive feature of the city. The harbor and Keykubat beach, named for Sultan Kayqubad, are on the east side of the peninsula, and Damlataş beach, named for the famous "dripping caves," and Cleopatra beach are to the west. Legend and locals claim the name Cleopatra Beach in Alanya derives from either the Ptolemaic princess' visit here or the area's inclusion in her dowry from Mark Antony.[19][20] Regardless, the area was indeed under some Egyptian hegemony in the early centuries BC.

Atatürk Bulvarı (Boulevard), runs parallel to the sea, and divides the southern, much more touristic side of Alanya from the northern, more native side, that extends north into the mountains. Çevre Yolu Caddesi circles the main town to the north.

Climate

Though promoting itself as "where the sun smiles," Alanya has a relatively moderate continental Mediterranean climate. The Mediterranean Basin ensures that most rain comes during the winter, leaving the summers long, hot, and dry. Storm cells sometime bring with them fair weather waterspouts when close to the shore. The presence of the Taurus Mountain in close proximity to the sea causes fog many mornings, in turn creating visible rainbows many days. The height of the mountains creates an interesting effect as snow can often be seen on them even on hot days in the city below. The sea at Alanya has an average temperature of 70.5°F (21.4°C) annually, with an average August temperature of 82.2°F (27.9°C).[21]

Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Average high °F (°C) 59
(15)
60
(16)
62
(17)
68
(20)
75
(24)
80
(27)
86
(30)
87
(31)
84
(29)
77
(25)
69
(21)
62
(17)
71
(22)
Average low °F (°C) 44
(7)
44
(7)
48
(9)
51
(11)
59
(15)
64
(18)
69
(21)
69
(21)
66
(19)
59
(15)
53
(12)
48
(9)
55
(13)
Rainfall in. (mm) 8.9
(227)
6.8
(172)
4.2
(106)
2.5
(64)
1.4
(36)
0.3
(8)
0.1
(3)
0.2
(5)
0.4
(10)
3.2
(80)
6.7
(171)
8.8
(224)
43.5
(1105)
Source: Weatherbase

Places of interest

Architecture

Seljuk era Tersane

On the peninsula stands Alanya Castle, a Seljuk era citadel dating from 1226. Most major landmarks in the city are found inside and around the castle. The current castle was built over existing fortifications and served the double purpose of a palace of local government and as a defensive structure in case of attack. The city is currently renovating various sections of the castle area, including a Byzantine church, which is intended to be used for a Christian community center.[22] Inside the castle is the Süleymaniye mosque and caravanserai, built by Suleiman the Magnificent. The old city walls surround much of the eastern peninsula, and can be walked. Inside the walls are numerous historic villas, well preserved examples of the classical period of Ottoman architecture, most built in the early 19th century.

The Kızıl Kule (Red Tower) is another well-known building in Alanya. The 33 meter high brick building stands at the harbor below the castle, and contains the municipal ethnographic museum. Sultan Alaeddin Kayqubad I brought the accomplished architect Ebu Ali from Aleppo, Syria to Alanya to design the building.[23] The last of Alanya Castle's 83 towers, the octagonal structure specifically protected the Tersane (arsenal), it remains one of the finest examples of medieval military architecture.[24] The Tersane, a medieval drydock built by the Seljuk Turks in 1221, 187 by 131 feet, is divided into five vaulted bays with equilateral pointed arches.[25]

Atatürk's House and Museum, from his short stay in the city on February 18, 1935 is preserved in its historic state and is a good example of the interior of a traditional Ottoman villa, with artifacts from the 1930s. The house was built between 1880 and 1885 in the "karniyarik" (stuffed eggplant) style. Bright colors and red roofs are often mandated by neighborhood councils, and give the modern town a pastel glow. Housed in a 1967 Republican era building, The Alanya Museum is inland from Damlataşh beach, and home to archaeology found in and around the city as well as historic copies of the Qur'an.[26] With its rich architectural heritage, Alanya is a member of the Norwich-based European Association of Historic Towns and Regions.[27]

Demographics

Historical population
YearPop.±%
189337,914—    
87080130%—    
1990129,936—    
49% 1,997−98.5%
22202871%—    
2000384,949—    
73% —    

From only 87,080 in 1985, the district has surged to currently hold a population of 384,949. The city itself has a population of 134,396, of which 9,789 are European expatriates, about half of them from Germany and Denmark.[28] The European expatriate population tends to be over 50 years old.[29] During the summer the population increases due to large numbers of tourists, about 1.1 million each year pass through the city.[17] Both Turks and Europeans, these vacationers provide income for much of the population. The city is home to many migrants from the Southeastern Anatolia Region and the Black Sea region. In the 2000s, the town has seen a surge in illegal foreign immigrants from the Middle East and South Asia, both to stay and to attempt to enter European Union countries.[30] Currently 1,217 migrants claim residence in Alanya while working abroad.[31]

The town is near 99% Muslim, and although many ancient churches can be found in the city, there are no regular Christian services. In 2006, a German language protestant church with seasonal service opened with much fanfare, after receiving permission to do so in 2003, a sign of the growing European population in the city.[32] Israeli tourists, often from cruise ships, constitute the Jewish population. These are occasionally the targets of discrimination, particularly at times of high tension, such as the 2006 Israel-Lebanon conflict, when a shopkeeper denied Israelis entry.[33]

Panorama from west side of peninsula

Education

The city boasts 95% literacy, with public, private, and Imam Hatip schools, and a roughly 1:24 student-teacher ratio.[17] There remains however a limited number of secondary schools outside of the city center, disadvantaging the rural villages. In 2005, Akdeniz University of Antalya launched the Alanya Faculty of Business, as a satellite campus which focuses on the tourism industry.[34] Georgetown University operates an annual study abroad program for American students known as the McGhee Center for Eastern Mediterranean Studies, named for the United States Ambassador to Turkey from 1952-1953 George C. McGhee, and based in his villa.[35]

Government

MP Mevlüt Çavuşoğlu (AKP)

Alanya was set up as a municipality in 1872, electing its first mayor in 1901. Today, Alanya is governed by a mayor and a municipality council made up of twenty-five members; thirteen are from the centre-right Motherland Party, which has maintained local loyalty despite its national disintegration, six members are of the current government's Justice and Development Party, three members of the centre-left Republican People's Party, two of the other centre-right True Path Party, and one independent. Mayor Hasan Sipahioğlu is also of the Motherland Party. Elections are held every five years, with the next to be held in 2009.

Just as the province is divided up into districts, the Alanya District is divided up into 17 municipalities, including the city center, and 92 villages.[36] Alanya is greatly influenced by the provincial government in Antalya, and the federal government in Ankara, which appoints a governor for the district, currently Dr. Hulusi Doğan.[37] Though Alanya has been part of Antalya Province since the Ottoman Empire, an Alanya Province has been a goal of many local politicians. Nationally, in the 2007 election, the province voted with the Justice and Development Party, who were followed closely by both the Republican People's Party and the True Path Party.[38] Mevlüt Çavuşoğlu, of the Justice and Development Party, is the only native Alanyalilar Member of Parliament representing Antalya Province in the Grand National Assembly, where he chairs the Committee on Migration, Refugees and Population.[39]

Economy

The tourist industry here is worth just under 1.1 billion euros, and is therefore the principal industry.[17] The area is further known for its many fruit farms, particularly lemons and oranges, and large harvests of tomatoes, bananas and cucumbers.[17][40] Despite the location, few residents make their living on the sea, and fishing is not a major industry. In the early 1970s, when fish stocks ran low, a system of rotating access was developed to preserve this sector.[41]

Tourism

Shop lined Keykubat Caddesi

Since the first modern motel was built in 1958, considered the first year of the tourist industry in Alanya,[16] hotels have raced to accommodate the influx of tourists, and the city now claims 157,000 hotel beds.[42] Damlataş cave, which originally sparked the arrival of outsiders because of the cave's microclimate, with an average temperature of 72 °F (22 °C) and 95% humidity, is accessible on the west side of the peninsula with trails from Damlataş beach.[43] Many tourists, especially Scandinavians, Germans, Russians, and Dutch, now regularly vacation in Alanya during the warmer months.[44] They are drawn to the area because of property prices, warm weather, sandy beaches, access to Antalya's historic sites, and fine cuisine.[45] As well as Damlataş there a number of other caves and places of natural beauty. Activities include wind surfing, parasailing, banana boating and Turkey's largest go-kart track.

Beginning in 2003, with the provisional elimination of restrictions on land purchases by non-nationals, the housing industry in the city has become highly profitable with many new private homes and condominiums being built for European and Asian part-time residents.[46] This in turn has put pressure on the city's many gecekondu houses and establishments as property values rise. A height restriction in the city limits most buildings to 21 feet (6.5 meters).[47] This keeps high rise hotels to the east and west of the city, preserving the central skyline at the expense of greater tourist potential. The fringes of the city however have seen uncontrolled expansion.[48]

For various reasons, the 2006 tourist season was disappointing for Alanya's industry. Among the reasons blamed were increased PKK violence, the H5N1 bird flu found in Van, and the Mohammad cartoon controversy.[49] Alanya officials responded with a variety of publicity iniatives, including baking the worlds longest cake on 2006-04-26, now a Guinness World Record.[50]

Media

Alanya has ten local daily newspapers.[17] The most prominent of these is Yeni Alanya, which also delivers the news and lifestyles magazine Orange as a subset which they provide in both English and German as well as the regular Turkish edition. Two native German language newspapers are published in Alanya, the Aktuelle Türkei Rundschau and Alanya Bote for the community of German speaking residents and visitors. A monthly magazine Hello Alanya published in Alanya for foreigners, appearing in English and Dutch language.[51] There is also a free regional newspaper called Riviera News which is printed in English and is widely available in Alanya.

Transportation

The D400 Turkish Highway connects Alanya from the east and west, and runs through the city center as Atatürk Bulvarı. Antalya Airport, is 75 miles (120 km) away and connects internationally. The still unopened local Antalya Gazipaşa Airport, completed in 1999, is only 9 miles (15 km) from the city, and is currently constructing an international terminal.[52] The international terminal will be completed by mid-2008. [53] There are bus and dolmuş systems out of Alanya's two bus depots, but buses are usually limited to the major roads, and inside the city transportation is by car, taxi, or foot, as many roads in the old town are closed to traffic. The harbor includes cruise ship piers, and also seasonal ferries and hydrofoils depart for Kyrenia in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.

Sports

Womens teams in the 2006 beach volleyball tournament

Alanya is home to a woman's basketball team, Alanya Belediye, which started in the first division but was relegated after the 2002 season. The city hosts a second level soccer team, Alanyaspor, though soccer fans in the city are mostly divided between the three major Istanbul teams. The city is currently constructing a new soccer facility with the intention of hosting winter competitions between major teams.[54]

Alanya is perhaps more famous for the annual triathlon, part of the World Triathlon Series, held every October,[55] and for the city's role as host of The Turkish Open, part of the Nestea European Beach Volleyball championship tour, which takes place in May.[56] In 2007, the Turkish Volleyball Federation persuaded the European Volleyball Confederation to build a beach volleyball training facility in Alanya, and make it the exclusive "center of beach volleyball in Europe."[57] The city is also a frequent host to national events, such as the annual beach handball tournament,[58] and the finish of the seven day Presidency Cycling Tour of Turkey.[59]

Logo Club Sport League Venue Established
Alanyaspor Football (soccer) Iddaa League B: Group B

Turkish Football Federation

Milli Egemenlik 1948

Sister cities

Since making agreements with Talsi, Trakai, and Keszthely in 2006, Alanya increased its number of sister cities to eight, seven of which are located within the European Union. Previously in 2005 Alanya had applied with Sister Cities International for an additional sister city located in the United States.[60] The most significant tie is with the city of Nea Ionia, where many of Alanya's Christians were resettled in 1923 after the Treaty of Lausanne. Gladbeck, Wodzisław Śląski, Schwechat, Fushun, and Alanya form a "family" in that each is partnered with the others.

Further reading

  • Redford, Scott. Landscape and the state in medieval Anatolia: Seljuk gardens and pavilions of Alanya, Turkey. Oxford: Archaeopress; 2000. ISBN 1-8417-1095-4

References

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See also