吊带裤

吊带裤是一种裤装，常被用于工作时的防护服^[1]。吊带裤最初的材质是牛仔布，但也可由灯芯绒、斜纹布制成，吊带裤是由Levi's的Grace Howard和雅各布·W·戴维斯在1890年代发明，并随着时代不断演变款式^[2]。吊带裤最初是用于工作环境中的防护服，并已经成为高级时装界中的潜在邪典^[3]。有许多高级时装品牌都推出了自家品牌的吊带裤，而吊带裤也是街头服饰文化的流行之一。^[4]

历史

吊带裤的确切起源仍未明了，但早在1776年的文献中便提到它被用于奴隶的工作防护服.^[5]。最早有大量生产吊带裤的证据是1890年，由李维·斯特劳斯和雅各布·W·戴维斯发明^[2]，并因其耐用性而在工人之间蔚为流行^[6]。

1920年，美国各地形成了吊带裤俱乐部团体，他们以吊带裤为标志，抗议服装成本上涨和服装产业暴利^[7]。在经济大萧条时代，吊带裤是美国南部和中西部的矿工、农民、伐木工、铁路工等贫穷阶级人士的服装^[8]，此景可从沃克·埃文斯拍摄的许多照片中看到。^[6]

进入21世纪后，吊带裤演变成高级时装，有些品牌的儿童吊带裤售价高达上百甚至上千美元。^[9]^[10]

参考来源

^ Walton & Taylor "The History of Overalls (Jeans)". www.waltontaylor.com. [2022-08-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-04-04）.
^ ^2.0 ^2.1 Kyi, Tanya Lloyd. The lowdown on denim. Hanmer, Clayton. Toronto: Annick Press. 2011. ISBN 978-1-55451-415-1. OCLC 825770364.
^ Christian Dior Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear Collection – Vogue. www.vogue.com. March 3, 2017 [2022-08-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-10-28）.
^ MacDonall, Nancy. Skinny Jeans, Move Over: Overalls Are Here (Again). The Wall Street Journal. May 6, 2021 [2022-08-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-08-25）.
^ Sullivan, James. Jeans: a cultural history of an American icon. New York: Gotham Books. November 7, 2006. ISBN 1-59240-214-3. OCLC 62697070.
^ ^6.0 ^6.1 McClendon, Emma. Denim : fashion's frontier. New Haven. 2016. ISBN 978-0-300-21914-2. OCLC 930798077.
^ Goldman, Jonathan. The New York City Overalls Parade, 1920. The Gotham Center for New York City History. 2020 [2022-08-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-09-23）.
^ Gunn, Douglas; Sims, Josh; Luckett, Roy. Vintage menswear : a collection from the Vintage Showroom. London: Laurence King. 2012. ISBN 978-1-78067-203-8. OCLC 866622270.
^ Stella McCartney – Designer RTW, Bags & accessories, Lingerie, Adidas by Stella McCartney, Fragrances, Kids. Stella McCartney – Designer RTW, Bags & accessories, Lingerie, Adidas by Stella McCartney, Fragrances, Kids. [November 13, 2017]. （原始内容存档于2021-04-02）.
^ Tu es mon TRÉSOR Imitation Pearl Embellished Overalls (Nordstrom Exclusive) | Nordstrom. Nordstrom. [November 13, 2017]. （原始内容存档于2018-12-06）（英语）.

[1] Walton & Taylor "The History of Overalls (Jeans)". www.waltontaylor.com. [2022-08-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-04-04）.

[:0-2] 2.0 ^2.1 Kyi, Tanya Lloyd. The lowdown on denim. Hanmer, Clayton. Toronto: Annick Press. 2011. ISBN 978-1-55451-415-1. OCLC 825770364.

[3] Christian Dior Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear Collection – Vogue. www.vogue.com. March 3, 2017 [2022-08-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-10-28）.

[4] MacDonall, Nancy. Skinny Jeans, Move Over: Overalls Are Here (Again). The Wall Street Journal. May 6, 2021 [2022-08-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-08-25）.

[:1-5] Sullivan, James. Jeans: a cultural history of an American icon. New York: Gotham Books. November 7, 2006. ISBN 1-59240-214-3. OCLC 62697070.

[:23-6] 6.0 ^6.1 McClendon, Emma. Denim : fashion's frontier. New Haven. 2016. ISBN 978-0-300-21914-2. OCLC 930798077.

[:2-7] Goldman, Jonathan. The New York City Overalls Parade, 1920. The Gotham Center for New York City History. 2020 [2022-08-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-09-23）.

[:3-8] Gunn, Douglas; Sims, Josh; Luckett, Roy. Vintage menswear : a collection from the Vintage Showroom. London: Laurence King. 2012. ISBN 978-1-78067-203-8. OCLC 866622270.

[9] Stella McCartney – Designer RTW, Bags & accessories, Lingerie, Adidas by Stella McCartney, Fragrances, Kids. Stella McCartney – Designer RTW, Bags & accessories, Lingerie, Adidas by Stella McCartney, Fragrances, Kids. [November 13, 2017]. （原始内容存档于2021-04-02）.

[10] Tu es mon TRÉSOR Imitation Pearl Embellished Overalls (Nordstrom Exclusive) | Nordstrom. Nordstrom. [November 13, 2017]. （原始内容存档于2018-12-06）（英语）.

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