Tomáš Mrázek (born August 24, 1982, in Brno) is a professional Czech rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, in 2003[1] and 2005,[2] and one Lead World Cup, in 2004.[3]
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Czech | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | August 24, 1982 Brno | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 178 cm (5 ft 10 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 62 kg (137 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Website | www | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | Sport climbing | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Retired | 2010 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 13 May 2013 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Biography
editTomáš started climbing on the rocks of Stránská skála near Brno in 1997. Only two years later, he could climb his first 8a and in the subsequent year managed to win the Czech Championship in lead climbing.
- In 2001 he became Junior World Champion in Imst, Austria,[4] Vice World Champion in Winterthur, Suisse,[5] and he won the prestigious Rock Master competition in Arco, Italy.[6]
- In 2002 he reached the overall 2nd place of the Lead World Cup and succeeded to repeat the legendary route Underground 9a redpoint in Massone near Arco.[7]
- In 2003 he won the World Championship in lead in Chamonix, France,[1] and climbed Sanjski Par Extension 9a in Mišja Peč, Slovenia.[7]
- In 2004 he became overall winner of the Lead World Cup.[3]
- In 2005 he repeated to win the World Championships in Munich, Germany[2] and placed 2nd at the World Games in Duisburg, Germany.[8] Moreover he succeeded to onsight Pata Negra in Rodellar, the second 8c onsight ever,[9] and Martin Krpan 9a in Mišja Peč.[7][10]
Tomáš has been keeping to win the Czech Championships annually.
Rankings
edit| Discipline | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 23 | 3 | 2 | 6 | 1 | 8 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 16 |
| Bouldering | 73 | 6 | 9 | 42 | ||||||
| Speed | 52 | |||||||||
| Combined | 13 | 1 | 2 | 3 |
| Discipline | 2001 | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 2 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 18 |
Number of medals in the World Cup
editLead
edit| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2000 | ||||
| 2001 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2002 | 3 | 1 | 4 | |
| 2003 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2004 | 4 | 4 | 1 | 9 |
| 2005 | ||||
| 2006 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
| 2007 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| 2009 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 10 | 11 | 8 | 29 |
Rock climbing
editRedpointed routes
edit9a+ (5.15a):
- Xaxid Hostel - Mišja Peč (SLO) - 5 November 2009 - First ascent[13]
- Open Your Mind Direct - Santa Linya (ESP) - 2009[14]
9a (5.14d):
- Halupca 1978 - Mišja Peč (SLO)
- Fuck the system - Santa Linya (ESP) - 20 March 2009
- Seleció natural extensión - Santa Linya (ESP) - 10 March 2009
- Analogica - Santa Linya (ESP) - 16 December 2008[15]
- Martin Krpan - Mišja Peč (SLO) - 5 April 2005
- Sanjski Par Extension - Mišja Peč (SLO) - 4 April 2003
- Underground - Massone (ITA) - 2002 - Bolted by Manfred Stuffer in 1998
8c (5.14b):
- Humildes pa´casa – Oliana (ESP) – 17 March 2009
- Pata Negra - Rodellar (ESP) – 10 August 2005 – Second-ever 8c onsight in history after Yuji Hirayama.[16]
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ a b "Sarkany and Mrazek World Champions". planetmountain.com. 14 July 2003. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ a b "Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions". planetmountain.com. 4 July 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ a b Dougald MacDonald (22 November 2004). "World Cup's Dramatic Finale". climbing.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ "UIAA Youth World Championship - Imst(AUT) 2001 - Result: male juniors lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ "UIAA World Championship - Winterthur (SUI) 2001 - Result: M E N lead". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ "Rock Master Hall of Fame". rockmasterfestival.com. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ a b c "Tomáš Mrázek - Informace". tomasmrazek.cz. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ "International World Games (L+S) - Duisburg (GER) 2005 - Result: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 22 July 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ "Mrazek onsights Pata negra 8c!". planetmountain.com. 13 September 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ "Tomas Mrazek 9a redpoint and 8b+ onsights". planetmountain.com. 18 April 2005. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Mrazek's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- ^ "Thomas Mrazek libera Xaxid Hostel 9a+ a Misja Pec". planetmountain.com. 6 November 2009. Retrieved 11 January 2012.
- ^ "Tomas Mrazek about his climb Directa Open Your Mind 9a+ in Spain". czechclimbing.com. 23 November 2009. Retrieved 11 January 2012.
- ^ "Tomas Mrazek- Analogica 9a/a+". czechclimbing.com. 2 December 2009. Retrieved 11 January 2012.
- ^ "Tomas Mrazek sent 8c onsigth !!". czechclimbing.com. 10 August 2005. Retrieved 11 January 2012.